The skies above the acacia forest are the deep blue of early winter and there’s not a cloud to be seen above the turbid waters of the Zambezi River. A pleasant change from the grip of a Cape winter, I think, as we trundle out of Chikwenya Camp for an afternoon game drive.

The rains are long gone here in northern Zimbabwe, and the dust hangs lazily in the golden light of sunset, but the deluges that define the summer months are still written in the sand. Beneath the trees, where the water pools after afternoon downpours, are the deep pockmarks of a thousand rainy-season footsteps...

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