In 2023, after 35 years of membership, Carel Nel, proprietor and cellarmaster of the Boplaas estate in Calitzdorp, tendered his resignation as a producing member of the Cape Winemakers’ Guild. He was making way for the next generation, conscious that change should not be retarded by the inertia of the past.

Nel is by no means the first of the 1980s cohort to pack away his pipette. While most of the original members of the institution, which began life at the beginning of that decade, are still very much alive, several had already decided to call it a day. But there are differences when it comes to Nel...

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