Charity, as the adage reminds us, begins at home — and the wine industry is acutely aware of this. For the past 30 years — during which time the relationship between grape growers/winemakers and the state was visibly combative — producers learnt to function without any assistance from the government. More recently, however, there has been evidence of toenadering — though not to the point that anyone would describe the spirit of engagement as “cosy”. Bad blood doesn’t evaporate overnight.

The government could do a lot more to ensure the viability of a sector that makes an important contribution to the economy and to our balance of payments — and employs (directly or indirectly) more than 250,000 people. It need look no further than Australia for an example worth following: trade deals with China (which went badly wrong during the Covid-19 pandemic), Britain, the EU and most recently India, have played a crucial role in supporting that country’s wine exports...

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